26th-27th March - Road to Guadalajara / by David Harrison

Left CDMX on the 26th headed for the lovely looking Hotel Lomas Inn at Jilotepec, on the shore of Lago Presa Danxho. Reserved and paid via booking.com.  Nothing around for miles - peace and quiet after the hustle bustle of Mexico City!  Or so we thought!! On arrival, after three hours driving, we found the Hotel Lomas Inn closed for building work, with an overzealous Security Guard who pointed his shotgun at David as he tried to get to the Recepcion Desk!!  Thanks again booking.com!!!

With no Plan B we were flummoxed. Had to drive to the nearest town 20 miles back down the track in search of a bed for the night. Fortunately David recognised a building he'd seen on another booking.com listing which despite the lack of a sign, turned out to be the Hotel Casa Real. They were open, and had availability. David looked at every single room, before plumping for 146 on the top floor with King-size bed and balcony overlooking the car park (pictured). 

For 350 Pesos we told them we'd happily take 146 as it was, but the family who ran the joint insisted on a tidy up and we spent half an in Recepcion watching them on CCTV as they beavered about swapping all the furniture, mopping the floor in room, bathroom, entire top floor corridor, unwrapping new loo rolls, soap, shampoo ..........! Exhausted us just to watch!!

Next morning after Huevos Mexicanos we got back on the road to Guadalajara, a 450km drive along the 15D Cuota Federal Highway.  Opting for the 'hotel on the outskirts' strategy once again we stayed at the One Hotel Tapatio with secure underground parking and a top (7th) floor room providing superb views over the city.  Dinner courtesy of the Soriana supermarket right nextdoor.

I'm an early riser, and at 6:30am was down in the 'Business Centre' researching Guadalajara hotels when the One Hotel front doors opened and from the pre-dawn darkness a shady looking hombre walked quietly in, through Recepcion, and into the lift.  The Recepcionist didn't even look up from his smartphone screen. Most folk wouldn't bat an eyelid, but I know a Heckler & Koch MP5 machine gun when I see one.  Even wrapped in a scruffy sweatshirt its distinctive shape was obvious to my weapons trained eye!  An its magazine was in - ready for action!! The lift went up to the 6th floor.  Phew I thought, Amanda's safe! We're not the Target! Seriously expecting to hear the rat a tat, tat of rapid fire (no supressor fitted) I listened hard.  Nothing! 

At ten to seven, the lift doors opened and Senor MP5 walked out, looked around, eyeballed me, and sat down at the table next to me.  Still carrying his sweatshirt wrapped MP5! What to do? Decided to sit still, stay calm and watch!

Over the next 10 minutes before Desaynuo at 7:00am, a dozen more hombres dressed in civvies, all carrying holdall type bags, came through the lift doors and gathered in the Recepcion/ Business Centre area. Just before the breakfast gong sounded another hombre packing heat (Stubby M4 with front grip) arrived through the front doors and joined them.  His gun not covered, or bagged, just clenched in his right hand, magazine in!! WTF I'm thinking.  What's about to kick off here, and where's my exit when lead starts flying?

Next thing they all queued for, sat down together, and ate desayuno, before a fleet of white and black Dodge Chargers marked SPF Vehiculo Escolta pulled up outside and one bag/gun toting hombre got into the back of each car.

Soon as they were gone I googled SPF and found it's a private organisation providing armored cars and armed security escorts for 'executives'.  Guns for hire.  Armed bodyguards.  With high powered CQB assault rifles! Crikey - what's out there waiting for us on the streets of Guadalajara!!? 

8:00am I woke Amanda with her regular early morning cup of tea, we had a lovely full Mexican breakfast in the peaceful and weapon free hotel restaurant and checked out of One Hotel Tapiato bound for the Colonial Hotel Morales in Guadalajara's Centro Historico.