Just 8km door to door, and this time a trouble free drive - there in 20 minutes. Hotel Morales found us a parking space right outside their door, and we checked in. David booked a deal online direct with the hotel's website and we were soon esconced in our 3rd floor Doble with streetside balcony - perfect spot for a Cuban Habana Cigar later!
For now let's find the murals of Jose Clemente Orozco.
First to El Palacio de Gobierno which has a huge 1937 Orozco mural 'The People and Its Leaders' above its main staircase. The painting is dominated by Miguel Hidalgo, the visionary priest and rebel idealist who launched Mexico's independence movement in 1810. He is depicted brandishing a flaming torch in one fist whilst the masses struggle at his feet pushing against the twin burdens of communism and fascism. There's another Orozco in the ex-Congreso debating chamber showing Hidalgo, Benito Juarez and other Mexican leaders signing the document abolishing slavery in Mexico 'Libertad y Reforma'
Then on to the Instituto Cultural de Cabanas, formerly Hospicio Cabanas an orphanage and home for invalids, where Orozco painted a series of 57 murals depicting pre-Hispanic Jalisco and the Conquest, which seethe with dark images of fire, horses, armour, blood and prayer. Almost hidden away, above the entrance hall are smaller paintings of the indigenous Aztec tribes engaged in ritual cannibalism. Up in the dome is Orozco's centrepiece 'Hombre de Fuego' said to be a self portrait showing a one handed man consumed by flames! (He lost his left hand in a fireworks accident at 21)
And a lively Taxi journey to Casa Teller Orozco - his former studio, now a gallery for up and coming Mexican artists - which contains his 1945 uncharacteristically upbeat 'La Buena Vida' ten panel study of a Chef holding up a fish! There's a lot more going on in there than just a happy chef mind you - dark and sinister figures lurk around the edges of the painting!!
There's more going on in Guadalajara than just Orozco too! We find a tented Artisan Mercado in one of the city's plazas showing the wares of 140 local Jalisco small businesses - David buys a belt and a hat band - Amanda some earrings. La Catedral de la Asunción de María Santísima with its distinctive neo-Gothic spires. La Fuente de los Ninos Miones - a bronze fountain of four little boys spouting water from various parts of their bodies! El Templo Expiatorio del Santísimo Sacramento neo-Gothic church with an amazing stained glass panelled spire.
Lots of great eating places too - full of locals - not tourists! Language barrier? Yes! Delicious food? Yes!! And queues to get a table! Always a good sign!! La Chata on our first night - Pollo Pozole (Chunky Chicken Soup) - yumbles, and La Gorda on the second, where we had Torta Ahogada (Drowned Sandwich) accompanied by a Mariachi band who played to the full house of almost entirely Mexican diners for half an hour from the pavement outside the open fronted restaurant!
Havana Cigar on the balcony later with a couple of glasses of red?? You bet!
Loved Guadalajara - you must go there!!
