21st-25th March - Mexico City / by David Harrison

Pit-stopped in Tehuacan at the Hotel Gran Mexico on the 21st after 253km of windy road from Oaxaca.  Hotel had history - same site for >120 years - albeit in many incarnations - currently sporting a swinging 60's Pool and Bar.  We took the Oaxaca Suite styled out with 70's furniture - Ron Burgundy would have loved it!  And a great price at only 25 quid including Desaynuo!

For David the best thing about Tehuacan was the 'REFORMA' Ferreteria Y Armeria with its wide range of Machetes and Guns.  With his Birthday fast approaching David was like a kid in a toy shop, but had to settle for just one item!  Read on for what Birthday surprise he unwrapped on the 25th!! 

Mexico City has a population of 22 million.  At twice the size of London it's the most populous city in North America! Altitude 2,240 metres, puts the place higher than two Mount Snowdons!  Day one, 22nd March, we stopped at City Express Hotel 'Central de Abastos' on the outskirts of city sprawl, and as it turned out slap bang next to CDMX's enormous Fish Market! Whiffy!! Luckily the bedroom's double glazing kept out most of the Olor a Pescado.  Freshened up we headed out to find somewhere local for a fish supper.  Hotel Manager dashed over. "Not Safe!" he said, thrusting a sheaf of takeaway menus into our hands! We settled for Pollo Fajitas in front of the telly - Narcos Season 3, Episodes 5 & 6 - glancing occasionally out the window wondering if we were watching drama or documentary!!!

23rd March David used his City Premios membership to book a Birthday & Anniversary long weekend treat at City Express Flagship 5* Hotel, a converted warehouse from Porfiriato times, right in the heart of CDMX's Centro Historico - with 35% discount obvs! Sat Nav said only 11km from the Fish Market - just a 20 minute drive. 

Nobody warned us about CDMX traffic!  Nobody mentioned the lack of white lines on the 6 lane roads!  Nobody told us that the traffic direction on many streets is reversed during busy periods - like Friday afternoons when everyone's heading home early for the weekend!!!

Two and a half hours later the intrepid Amanda & David arrived at City Centro Hotel at war with each other after the hariest drive on their adventure so far!  Amanda checked into the lovely Top Floor room with vista over Historic CDMX and poured herself a glass of wine, whilst David spent 30 minutes negotiating off street parking for Pablo - "No Problem" said Parking Hombre.  "Yes Problem" said David as the Roof Tent scraped a low concrete beam!  Problem solved by three large Parking Hombres hanging off the car - one each side, another on the tailgate - and Pablo inched safely under the beams!!

Fantastic place downtown Mexico City - as Amanda's fab photos show.  If you want to see more watch the first 15 minutes of 007 film Spectre where CDMX's Plaza de la Constitucion and the Hotel Gran Mexico feature large!! 

Over our three days at City Centro we took in Diego Rivera's mural tableau of Mexican history at the Palacio Nacional, coffee at Cafe La Habana where Fidel and Che plotted their Cuban Revolucion,  pulques at Pulqueria Las Duelistas where Rick Stein drank with trepidation, delicious Burritos at backstreet Food Stalls, chilled cervezas on the 41st floor of Torre Latinoamericana (which when built in 1956 was Latin America's tallest building) , Mercado San Juan food market, the slanting 17th Century Ex Teresa Arte Actual, La Catedral Metropolitana, Monumento a la Revolucion, Organilleros cranking the handle of their 1890's street organs, and so much more!!

David's Birthday plus our 23rd Wedding Anniversary on Sunday 25th March and we celebrated in style!  Traditional 23rd gift is Silver Plate.  David unwrapped a fine looking 24 inch Machete with silver (coloured) blade; Amanda opened a wonderful pair of wedge sandals with silver (coloured) straps!  We enjoyed breakfast and drinks in bed, after a lively and somewhat sleepless night!!

(Ed's Note:  Sleepless night not what you're thinking! Seems City Centro Hotel has a Rooftop Bar/Nightclub which only opens on Saturday Nights.  Sound system right above the ceiling of D&A's Room. After assurances the thumping bass would cease at midnight, but didn't, David took matters into his own hands and stomped up there in his PJs to confront Nightclub Manager + Bouncers and was pushed around, almost shoved down the impressive marble staircase, by a particularly burly and threatening Mexican thug! Saga continued until 3:00am, with the Police called twice to clear the Roof Top Club and calm things down!! And came to a satisfactory conclusion next day when the Hotel Manager gave the sleepless couple two of their three days stay for free!!!)