Time to cross 'The Last Frontier' into Alaska!
26th June - We overnight at Beaver Creek, Yukon Territory, Canada - just short of the US Border - staying in the imaginatively named Beaver Creek Motel - what a dump! WiFi didn't work, rattling thundery noise echoing down the corridor, stale smelly bedrooms - but still $89.50 a night! Unfortunately the lively 'Buckshot Betty's' right next-door was fully booked - although we had a fun Dinner there - met Betty (real name Carmen) - and drank plenty of Yukon Red Ale!!
"Hey, are you biker guys from Colombia?" said a loud Yank voice to the two quiet fellas at the next table.
"Si", they modestly replied - wondering what was coming next.
"What's the most dangerous country you drove through?"
"Got to be the US of A!" said David in an uncharacteristically shouty voice. "Everyone of you carries a GUN!"
"Whattabout Mexico?" Loud Yank continued, "that's gotta be danger-city for shure!"
The Columbians rolled their eyes in disbelief.
"You Americans are such suckers for Republican propaganda. Mexico is a great place. The people are so friendly," Shouty Voice responded. "We're from England, since you ask!" "Safest country in the world, where nobody carries a GUN!"
"Same again?" asked Betty, with a wry grin. "Yep!" said Shouty Voice watching as Loud Yank and his buddy paid and left.
27th June - Border Time - best one yet! Drive thru border - 5 minute queue in the car lane + 5 minute chat with Border Official = 10 minute border crossing! Oddly the 'Welcome to Alaska' sign comes a mile before the border crossing!? And a wading moose came a mile before that!!
150km up the road we pulled up in Tok. Not much wildlife spotted since crossing the Border - only one lonesome Moose. Found out why at the Tok Huntin, Shootin n Fishin Store where a fella was buying a new Bear Hunting Rifle. When he'd gone David asked the store keeper whether it was legal to hunt Bears in Alaska? "Hell, yeah!" was his reply. "Brand new Bear Huntin Season starts 1st July." "You're right on time!" "Pick yourself up a free copy of the Huntin Regs." he said pointing to a huge stack of inch thick books next to the Ammo Box tower.
WRONG! JUST WRONG!!
Odd place Tok, perhaps a taster for Alaska generally! We stayed at the Tok RV Village - in Log Cabin 8. Seemed brand new - all very lovely - should be for $145 a night - and 10:00am checkout means 10:00am checkout! No exceptions!! But hey - the Cabin wasn't ready yesterday - we had to wait an hour until 5:00pm whilst someone cleaned it!!! No exceptions!!!!
Supermarket doesn't sell alcohol - bullets, yes - booze, no! "You'll need to go right across town to the Liquor Store." "Is that it just over the road and down a block?" "Yip, like I said, right across town!"
Husky greeted us at the Liquor Store. His icy blue eyes transfixed us - somehow we left with three 12 packs of Alaskan Brewery Icy Bay IPA! It was delicious! Thanks Husky!!
28th June - 350km of Alaska Highway covered and we're at the Golden North Motel in Fairbanks.
En route we passed the Eielson Air Force Base - home to the 354th Fighter Wing and its 18th Aggressor Squadron of F-16s. It's the closest US Air Force Base to Russia (just 600 miles away across the Bering Straits). High perimeter fence, guard towers, signs on the highway "Do Not Stop', and lots of secretive looking buildings spread across the enormous compound! (sorry no photos available!)
Early next morning David met a group of 20 British Planespotters who had also overnighted at the Golden North. Flown over from England for a few days - arrived last night. Over coffee they chatted and at 6:30am, bristling with telephoto lenses and high powered binos the 20 climbed into 2 minibuses to head out for a days aviation observation.
"There's a big US Air Force Base at Eielson, about 30 miles east of here. We passed it yesterday on our way into Fairbanks."
"That's exactly where we're headed," they replied in hushed tones.
Wonder if the 20 are now incarcerated at Eielson? Anyone remember the Kalamata 14??
