Whilst enjoying our Desayuno at the Halfway Inn we learned from 'Lonely Planet - Mexico' that the California Gray Whale migrates annually from Alaskan waters to the Laguna Ojo de Liebre on the Mexican Baja Peninsula to match and hatch. Mothers stay with their Calves in the Laguna for three months for swimming lessons. Official Whale Watching season runs from December 15 to April 15.
Hey, we're in Guerrero Negro which just happens to be on the shores of that very Laguna - and today is 15th April !!
Couple of phone calls and a mad dash to the quayside later we're on a little open boat - six metres - with skipper Tito plus two folks from Tijuana and headed at speed out into Laguna Ojo de Liebre for the very last whale watching trip of the season.
Many of the whales have already left for their long journey north, but Tito knows these waters and after a fast 20 minute run up to the mouth of the Laguna we see water spouts and gently approach a Gray Whale mother and calf. Maybe they are friends of Titos? Maybe they like human contact? Either way these two graceful giants of the deep swim right up to our tiny boat. Tiny in comparison to a twelve metre mother whale and her six metre calf!!
Tito cuts the engine and for 30 minutes mother and calf swim around us, nudging the boat with their heads, blowing water at us from their blowholes, scratching their noses on the hull, and enjoying us stroking their bristly snouts! Calf shows off with a couple of nose up 'Spy-hop' manouevres to get a better look at us.
Seems they are genuinely pleased to see us as Calf plays around the boat whilst Mum keeps a watchful eye. We are genuinely pleased to see them and spellbound by their sheer size and majesty! They move so slowly and gracefully through the water, gentle giants living off tiny plankton. Noses covered in barnacles - especially Mum who's giving hers a good scratch on the hull! A little unnerving as each scratch nudges boat and passengers!
And their gone! Tails come up as Mum and Calf dive down deep and wave goodbye. Maybe we'll see them again when we reach Alaska?
Tito spots a group of adult whales further out towards the Pacific Ocean and we head out to see them. These are big guys without calves so we watch from a safe distance. One must be at least 15 metres long! Seems he's on patrol, swimming back and forth across the mouth of the Laguna, keeping the Mothers and Calves safe.
There's a conflict here in Laguna Ojo de Liebre. As well as the Gray Whales calving grounds, it's home to the world's largest commercial saltworks run by Exportada de Sal S.A. (ESSA), who harvest salt on land adjacent to the Laguna and ship it in giant barges across to and through the mouth of the Laguna to waiting merchant ships. Saltworks and Whales appear to be co-existing, but the risks of pollution and passing shipping remain!
En route back to the quayside Tito introduces us to the colony of Sea Lions - many of whom are sunbathing atop a giant barge mooring buoy - and a local dolphin who's enjoying a shallow water fish feast.
Back on terra firma we realise we've been out on the water for three hours! What an amazing voyage!!
