15th November - La Cupula Hotel / by David Harrison

Time to leave Colibri Eco Lodge - AVOID La Paz - and search for the peaceful Nirvana of Copacabana - on the banks of Lago Titicaca!

Once clear of the endless suburbs of La Paz, Ruta 5 is a fine road and we motor along at 120kmh - find a lovely Picnic spot overlooking the Lago and continue our journey - thanking the Witches of La Paz for the lack of gridlock!

All of a sudden Ruta 5 takes a sharp left turn and we're headed straight into the Titicaca! Sat Nav squawks 'Drive onto the Ferry'.  Nothing showing at the waters edge - except a row of small wooden Barges - each with a one man crew + a small outboard engine!!

The 4x4 in front of us drives to the water's edge and up two narrow planks like something from the Top Gear Bolivia Special (Ed's note: well, you are in Bolivia!), onto one of the Barges, closely followed by a regular sized coach complete with 40 passengers!!

Some bloke in a uniform blows a whistle at us and points at the next Barge in line, so it's our turn to drive the plank, up on to the rickety Barge, followed by an impatient local who honks the horn of his 4x4 as we gingerly board!

Captain casts off and starts his 25Hp Outboard for the 20 minute crossing.  Amanda refuses to get out of the car - and I admire the flex of the wooden built hull - together with the water level inside the boat - as we cross the busy shipping lane.

Safely ashore - phew - we drive on to Copacabana - and after one Policia Stop just outside town - where the Fat Head Cop demands a 'fine' (but gets anglo saxon expletives instead) - we arrive at La Cupula Hotel and an oasis of tranquility!!