27th November - we're Backpackers! / by David Harrison

From Ayacucho we follow the Sendero Luminoso down the mountains and head west.  355 km and seven hours of windy roads later reach Pisco.  Expected a quaint fishing village surrounded by vineyards producing Pisco Brandy - but instead find an industrial town with not a vine in sight + a commercial port where the fishing boats ought to be!

Fortune favours us as we turn left along the Pacific Coast Road and 15 minutes later find ourselves a Quaint Fishing Village called Paracas!!

Well posh Hotels in this town - looking for 2,000 Soles a night (that's 500 quid!).  Hang on though - only place in town with a beachfront bar is Kokopelli Backpackers' Hostal - and they have a Double Room with private bathroom - 140 Soles a night (including breakfast).

Quick as a flash Pablo is parked, bags are in the bedroom - and we're in the Beachfront Bar (BONUS - it's Happy Hour) - 4 Pisco Sours + Burger'n'Chips & Chicken Salad later - all is good and 355 km of highway hell forgotten!!

We're by far the oldest swingers in town - so style it out with lots of "Grow Up!" calls, some guitar strumming and a midnight streak round the pool by Amanda!!!

Next morning we're the Backpackers' new best friends and after a lunchtime Happy Hour sesh in the beachbar swapping Gap Yaaah Traveller Tales, Benjamin (Canada), Renee (Venezuela) and Roxana (France) - combined age 57 - invite David (57) and Amanda (??) to go for Ceviche at a "cool local place" they found in town.  Turns out Ceviche is a raw fish meal - Peru's answer to Sushi - and turns out it's DELICIOUS !!!